Sederma is a French manufacturer that provides the companies of the cosmetic industry with the active ingredients they use to make their products. This means they invest more in the research that will prove that these ingredients can actually provide the results they promise. This research may produce enhancements to already existing compounds or create new compounds altogether that show promise.
What Does Eyeliss Do for Eye Bags?
One such compound is Eyeliss and according to Sederma it is to be used in all cosmetic creams, lotions, gels, serums and other products that intend to address eye puffiness. It is actually a 3% solution in water and steareth-20 of 3 chemicals that have been certified to fight the bags under the eyes. These chemicals are:
- Hesperidin methyl chalcone which is used to restrict the permeability of the capillaries
- Dipeptide Valyl-Tryptophane (VW) which is used to increase the lymphatic circulation
- Lipopeptide Pal-GQPR which does the main work of improving on the firmness and elasticity of the skin along with providing anti-inflammatory properties.
The main cause behind puffiness is the build-up of fluid due to insufficient or poor lymphatic drainage, capillaries that have become fragile and skin that has lost this elasticity. The bags are actually created by the leakage of this fluid to the surrounding tissues. The combination of the three chemicals described above, seems to have been devised so that each of the above causes is directly countered.
According to the studies released by Sederma the effects of Eyeliss are:
- Regulation by 33% of the effects of UV radiation on the skin
- 85% reduction of the effects of the ACE enzyme on the lymphatic drainage system
- The permeability of the capillaries was reduced by 25%
Before releasing this compound to general use, Sederma conducted a clinical study with 20 volunteers between the ages of 20 and 40 with chronic problems of bags under the eyes that used Eyeliss for a total of 56 days applying it twice daily. The results of this study, as published, were:
- The eye contour was smoothed by a staggering 62%
- The bags themselves were reduced by another 52%
- There was also a 52% decongestant effect
The cumulative reduction of the bags under the eyes in this study reached 70%.
Furthermore, since the pH of the solution is between 6 and 7, it would appear that it can be used by all kinds of skin types (oily, dry, normal).
Tests and verification
It is to be expected that the claims of Eyeliss must be tested and verified by independent and unbiased organizations. The first such test was conducted by the Electronic Retailing Self-Regulating Program. It was comprised of a clinical study and a follow-up survey. The results of these were:
- 62% of the volunteer subjects reported smoothing of the contours
- 52% reported a definite reduction of the bags under the eyes
- 52% reported feeling a decongestant effect
- 86% reported better moisturization of the skin
- 71% reported that their skin was softer
- 71% reported that their skin was smoother
These results could very well be considered as a verification of the claims made by Sederma in reference to Eyeliss and an independent confirmation.
Eyeliss is fairly new so there has not been ample time to determine if there can be any problems resulting from usage over a long period of time. There was also not enough time to determine if the inclusion in the various compounds released to the general public may be responsible for short term side-effects and other problems.
Some cosmetic companies have taken their products that incorporated Eyeliss to be dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested. There have been released results of such studies indicating that no problems have been reported either for the skin or for the eyes. While this encouraging it cannot be taken as a de facto acceptance of the beneficial effects until a full set if independent and unbiased studies is conducted and their results released.
Every new discovery is considered as such when it meets certain criteria. For those who want to see the bags under their eyes disappear the criterion is to see them actually disappear. It is only natural that they will jump to using any compound that promises to achieve this objective.
This does not mean that every compound that promises to fulfill the criteria set is safe to use either for a short or for a longer term. Not until every aspect and issue pertaining to its use has been thoroughly tested and verified. Unfortunately this is a time consuming process that has to be handled by independent sources with the authority for determination.
The fact that Sederma is a European company means that there will be at least 28 reports released by 28 different country health organizations. It is to be expected that not all of them will release their results at the same time and not all the tests and studies will be conducted under the same parameters. However, with 28 results to look into, the confirmation of the claims will be undeniable.
Until such time as this process is completed it would be wise to use any cosmetic containing Eyeliss with due caution and by observing any and all safety precautions provided by the manufacturer.